My Perfect Day in BCN | Sobremesa In Spain's Guest Post on Homage to BCN

Patio of Gaudi's Casa Batlló, Barcelona

Expats are often drawn to each other in the blogging world or in their city of residence, and not just for the obvious reasons of language or culture in common. In my experience it has been our love and appreciation for our new home that binds us. That was the case with Rob Dobson of Homage to BCN. He is a British expat making his new home in Barcelona, a city which you all know I have a huge love affair with. When he offered to feature my 'Perfect Day in BCN' on his informative memoir to the Catalan capital, I dove right in.

"I write about food, take pictures of food, think about food, turn every conversation into some topic of food, so it comes as no surprise when I’m in Barcelona, one of the food capitals of the world, I chow down. What I love about Catalan cuisine and the food culture of Barcelona is its determination to provide fresh, flavorful combinations to the masses at reasonable prices and with a slice of humility. Sure some have received Michelin stars, or can show off hundreds of press accolades adorned on the wall, but besides this, many continue to do what they set out to do decades ago. Setting an example for new chefs and young talent to follow in role-model fashion. Catalans have a very concrete culinary identity and I think this confidence shines through in their creations, meanwhile the patron walks away with a smile and without having this experience leave a whole in their wallet. 

Hump Day: Anchoas Sanfilippo | Cantabrian Anchovies

In the last post I spoke to you all about Spain's recent call to action "Ni Un Pez Por La Borda" in which chefs, lawmakers, citizens, and the seafood eating public are learning more and more about the truth of the fishing industry. What is fished from our oceans and into our mouths is a rather complicated string and it involves a whole line of people from the point of capture, legislators, fishmongers to consumers. As a side note I highly suggest you see the documentary, The End of the Line. While we can vote to change policies, the choices we make at point-of-sale have the biggest impact on this chain gang, and can potentially break or disrupt a crucial link.

One way to do this is to eat smaller fish. Ironically they are healthier (less mercury), more sustainable, and in in my humble opinion stronger in taste than the bigger fish of the sea that need years to grow and a heavy cream sauce. It is less likely that these species are over-fished, farmed or illegally caught. In fact Spain is world famous for its anchovies, known as anchoas. And the place to get them is Cantabria, an autonomous region sandwich between the land masses of the Basque Country, Castile & Leon and Asturias, and of which the capital is Santander. Touristically speaking it is often overlooked, but it remains rich in food history and culture, facing the Bay of Biscay to the north and backed by the green hills of the Cantabrian mountains to the south, peppered with dairy and beef cows.

For generations along this coast, fishermen have been dedicating their practice to harvesting anchovies. Once captured, those that don't go to the markets for sale, often end up in a cylindrical tin, a traditional salazón, a method of preserving meats and fish by way of salt exposure, a practice that helps to fight off certain bacteria and has existed since the time of the Egyptians. Spain is still dotted with Roman ruins that showcase the salazones where fermented fish sauce, garum, was produced in high quantity and shipped back by boat to Italy.

Spain's Fish Fight | Ni Un Pez Por La Borda: Kick-off at Mercado de San Miguel Madrid

They call it the discard protest. We all know that our ocean's are suffering - not only by daily consumption of our growing population, but climate change, pollution, trolling, etc. Did you also know that 40-60% of our European seas are littered with dead fish, thrown back from fishing boats? This madness takes places for a number of reasons, our taste in seafood is often determined by diet fads and what's in style, fishing practices have trouble limiting their catch to one or two species, meaning that lots of unwanted fish get cast into the sea having already taken their last breath, or due to fishing quotas - that were established to limit the endangerment of a species - however, when the fishermen realize they have caught too many of a particular kind, the extra of those "protected" species like cod or tuna, end up sinking to their fate.

Begun last year in the UK by activist Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, and with much success as well as celebrity backing from Jamie Oliver and Coldplay - almost 800,000 signatures have been collected- the Fish Fight campaign is finding its way through Europe. Spain recently joined on-board celebrating under the slogan Ni Un Pez Por La Borda (Not one fish overboard) with chefs, politicians, marine conservationists and the press on-hand at Madrid's classic and notorious Mercado de San Miguel last Wednesday. Leading the Spanish fleet; Mario Picazo, chefs Mario Sandoval of Coque, Darío Barrio of dASSA bASSA, Joaquín Felipe of Hotel Villa Real and Hotel Urban, Paco Roncero of La Terraza del Casino and Estado Puro, Ángel León of Aponiente in Cádiz and Sergi Arola (although absent from the event at San Miguel). On this special day of awareness and education, they served up a tapas bar worthy of 4 Michelin stars.

According to Ocean2012, two of every three fish consumed within Spain come from outside of Spanish borders and waters - an alarming statistic for those that believe that Spain's seafood presence is important and note-worthy. Over exploited seas, developed consumer demand/taste and poor sustainable practices have lead us to a "do or die moment", an opportunity to change. The goals of Ni Un Pez Por La Borda and others include reaching the European Parliament in Brussels, therefore initiating adjustments in the legislation of the EU Common Fisheries Policy, altering the methods of capture - so that they are more sustainable and selective - and educating consumers.

Aside from signing the petition, we the consumers can make choices when shopping or eating out (go to Fish2Fork the first review site for sustainable seafood restaurants). Choosing species like scad or horse mackerel (chicharro), mackerel (caballa), and flounder (platija), sea bream (besugo) and pouting are more sustainable, and often more economical options than the much desired and overly consumed salmon, cod and tuna options.


In Spain join the campaign at
Ni Un Pez Por La Borda and follow them on
Facebook
Twitter @niunpez

In the rest of Europe and for more information go to Fish Fight.net
Facebook
Twitter @Hughsfishfight

 Joaquín prepares for the tasting using sustainable seafood and shellfish. 

One of my favorite Spanish shellfish from the Northern Atlantic coast, berberechos, or cockles. This fine raw material was the star of the tapa by Joaquín Felipe. 

How to Make Goat's Cheese: Accidentally or Purposefully

Sometimes happy accidents happen in the kitchen. The other day I was heating some goat's milk for a beverage when I suppose I turned my back for a moment too long and it started to give off a sour smell and curdle. My boyfriend leaped at the stove, pushed off the burner and sulked for a split second as his tea would now have to wait and we would have to throw away the "milk." "No!" I screamed as I started shuffling through the cupboard for the cheesecloth, "I'll make cheese I said." Puzzled and unbelieving of my prowess he resumed his position in front of the computer (he's a software engineer and rarely gets up from that chair other than to turn off my boiling water, soup, milk, noodles, etc.). Thankfully he is there for that task.

As it turns out I am capable of making cheese - you are too! - and it's actually a fairly hassle free recipe, as it practically makes itself. Ahh the wonders of nature's products.

My first homemade cheese on top of my homemade whole wheat bread. Not too shabby.

Hump Day: Mercado de La Paz, One of Madrid's Premium Markets

A photo journey through one of Madrid's covered municipal markets in the Salamanca district, Mercado de La Paz, translated to Peace Market, has a history dating back to 1882. Many shoppers are locals, while others come from outside of their barrio (neighborhood) to get their hands on some of the freshest seafood and ingredients Madrid has to offer. Others simply prefer this market to others because of its set-up, plethora of offerings and "high class" clientele - cheese, meats, seafood, restaurant and bar, a tailor, a key-maker and even a dry cleaner can be found here. There is something for everyone at this town market tucked between two streets perpendicular to La Castellana; it is somewhat isolated from heavy traffic or crowds yet well connected to downtown. 

Traditional Catalan Fare at Bar Pinotxo, Mercat La Boqueria, Barcelona

Magical culinary wonders await us behind the gates of Sant Josep market, otherwise known as La Boqueria in Barcelona

Another toda la vida establishment in Barcelona, Bar Pinotxo in the Mercat de la Boqueria may not be 'Cheers' where everybody knows your name, but it sure is where everybody knows Juanito. The mythical bartender, chef and entertainer at Pintoxo Bar, which in Catalan stands for Pinocchio, is a Barcelona legend and city emblem. One can't pass through Las Ramblas, Barcelona's busiest street without likely running into this famed kiosk. Friends with Ferran Adrià, cheek rubber with politicians, housewives and tourists, Juanito Bayen not only rules this corner, he owns the bulk of the attention. Nowadays not a single guidebook in Japanese, English, Dutch, or German is published without the inclusion of Pinotxo - but this doesn't stop the locals from stopping by for a meal, glass of cava, or a tallat (cortado in Spanish, a coffee with a dash of milk).

Hump Day: Melimur Organic Honey

Spring has sprung! I have to admit it's one of my favorite seasons, as I am very much a warm weather person. But I'd also have to say that it's not the idea of going outside without a jacket, or holidays around the corner that get me really looking forward to the season. Actually it goes way back to childhood memories of growing up in Maryland and the saying of "April showers bring May flowers," that's right, I'm a sucker for wild flowers; daffodils, lavender, buttercups, baby's breath, poppies, sainfoin and honeysuckle. There is no better way to get face to face with these amazing species other than to get out to the countryside. Thankfully, almost every major city in Spain is wrapped by bountiful hills, mountains, plains or coastal vegetation, so a quick 30 minute trip at the right time of year will drop you into the nucleus of springtime.